- The Fitzpatrick scale in brief
- Fitzpatrick I–II: very fair skin
- Fitzpatrick III: medium skin
- Fitzpatrick IV: olive to light brown skin
- Fitzpatrick V–VI: dark skin
- Hair colour as the second factor
- Specifics by treatment area
- Contraindications and medications
- Before your first session: checklist
- Frequently asked questions
The wavelength is what matters — not the skin type
Laser hair reduction works for almost every skin type — as long as the right wavelength is used. Alexandrit (755 nm) for Fitzpatrick I–III, Nd:YAG (1064 nm) for IV–VI. Both are available in a dual-laser device. Other crucial factors include hair colour (without melanin in the hair, the laser won't work) and medical contraindications.
The Fitzpatrick scale in brief
In 1975, the American dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick developed a skin type classification system at Harvard Medical School that is now the global standard. It divides skin into six groups from very fair (I) to very dark (VI) — not based on outward appearance, but on how it reacts to sunlight. If you burn easily and rarely tan, you have a lower type; if you tan easily and hardly ever burn, you have a higher one.
This classification is crucial for laser hair removal because the melanin concentration in the epidermis directly determines how much light is absorbed there — before it even reaches the hair root. High epidermal melanin concentrations mean more energy stays in the skin, less reaches the hair, and the risk of side effects (pigmentation changes, superficial burns) increases. That's why parameters and wavelengths are adjusted to your Fitzpatrick type.
| Type | Description | Sun reaction |
|---|---|---|
| I | Very fair, often red-haired, freckles, blue eyes | burns immediately, doesn't tan |
| II | Fair, blonde hair, light eyes | burns easily, tans minimally |
| III | Fair to medium, dark blonde or light brown hair | rarely burns, tans gradually |
| IV | Olive, dark hair, brown eyes (Mediterranean) | tans well, rarely burns |
| V | Brown, dark hair (e.g. Middle East, South Asia) | tans easily, hardly burns |
| VI | Dark brown to black | tans very easily, almost never burns |
Fitzpatrick I–II: very fair skin, classic Alexandrit
With fair skin types, the epidermal melanin concentration is low. The laser light is barely absorbed in the epidermis and reaches the hair root efficiently. If the hair is dark or medium brown, the Alexandrit laser (755 nm) usually works very efficiently here: it takes full advantage of the high melanin absorption at this wavelength.
Typical session parameters: medium fluence (around 14–22 J/cm²), short to medium pulse durations, larger spot size for larger areas. The diode laser (800–810 nm) can also be used — the results are comparable, and the choice is often determined by the studio's concept and the area being treated.
What we pay special attention to with types I–II:
- Red-haired type I clients often have pheomelanin instead of eumelanin in their hair. Pheomelanin absorbs laser light less effectively — so the reduction can be more limited than the skin type might initially suggest.
- Freckles contain concentrated spots of melanin and can appear temporarily darker after a session. This usually fades.
Fitzpatrick III: medium skin, flexible choice
Type III is very common in Central Europe — dark blonde to light brown hair, skin that tans in summer. The choice between Alexandrit and diode is often a matter of the studio's focus. With modern dual-laser systems, we can switch between wavelengths if your skin is tanned during the season.
The deciding factor is your current level of tan. In winter, Alexandrit usually works very efficiently. After a summer holiday, we might recommend postponing your session by 4–6 weeks or switching to Nd:YAG to avoid pigmentation changes.
Fitzpatrick IV: olive to light brown — the transition zone
Here, the choice of parameters becomes noticeably more cautious. Type IV (Mediterranean skin type, many people of Southern European, Arab, or Turkish descent) sits in the borderline area between 'Alexandrit works well' and 'Nd:YAG recommended'. In practice, we use both wavelengths depending on the situation:
- In winter, on untanned skin, Alexandrit usually works well — with adjusted fluence and longer pulses.
- For slightly tinted or tanned skin, we switch to Nd:YAG.
- If you're unsure, we'll do a test patch on an inconspicuous area and check the reaction after 24 hours.
Fitzpatrick V–VI: dark skin, Nd:YAG as the standard choice
With types V and VI, the epidermis contains so much melanin that Alexandrit light (755 nm) would leave too much energy there. The risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, blistering or hypopigmentation increases — regardless of how experienced your practitioner is. The technically correct choice here is the Nd:YAG laser at 1064 nm: the light is absorbed much less by the melanin and penetrates into deeper skin layers where the hair root sits.
Studios that exclusively use Alexandrit or pure diode systems aren't usually the best place for types V–VI. Before booking, specifically ask about the device's wavelength — not just the brand.
Hair colour as the second factor
Your skin type determines which wavelength you can tolerate. Your hair colour determines whether the laser can work at all. Because without pigment, there's no target chromophore — and therefore no thermal effect at the hair root.
| Hair colour | Melanin content | Laser suitability |
|---|---|---|
| Black / very dark brown | high (eumelanin) | very good — classic use case |
| Medium to dark brown | high | very good |
| Dark blonde | medium | good, possibly more sessions |
| Strawberry blonde / red | Phaeomelanin | limited, results vary |
| Light blonde | low | highly limited |
| White / grey | no melanin | laser has no effect |
For grey or white hair, classic laser hair reduction is not effective. Alternative methods like electrolysis (needle epilation) can be an option — they work independently of pigment, but take a lot more time and aren't part of our services.
Treatment area specifics by skin type
The same skin type can react differently on different areas of the body — due to varying hair density, hair thickness, and local melanin concentration.
Contraindications and medications
Some circumstances rule out a laser session — temporarily or permanently. Reputable clinics will clear this up during your consultation and won't treat you if there's any doubt.
| Condition | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Pregnancy / breastfeeding | do not treat (standard practice) |
| Active skin infection, herpes, open wounds | only after healing |
| Photosensitising medications (isotretinoin, tetracyclines, doxycycline, St John's wort) | leave a gap, consult your doctor |
| Epilepsy with photosensitivity | consult a doctor |
| Tattoos directly in the area | avoid — the laser can heat tattoo pigments |
| Fresh suntan, sunbeds | wait at least 4 weeks |
| Active acne with retinoid therapy | 6-month break recommended after isotretinoin |
| Blood clotting disorders, anticoagulants | consult your doctor, usually fine |
This isn't an exhaustive list. Before your first session, we'll have a detailed consultation, note down any medical conditions and medications, and decide if and how to proceed with your treatment. If you're unsure, just bring a list of your medications to your trial session.
Before your first session — a quick checklist
- No sun or sunbeds on the treatment area for at least 4 weeks.
- Shave 24 hours before your appointment — do not epilate, wax, pluck, or use hair removal cream. The laser needs the pigment inside an intact hair shaft.
- Avoid irritating products (acids, scrubs, retinol) on the area for 48 hours beforehand.
- No creams, deodorants, or make-up on the area on the day of your treatment.
- Make a list of your medications and let the studio know.
- If you're pregnant or breastfeeding — postpone your appointment.
We'll determine your individual skin type
During your free trial session, we'll determine your Fitzpatrick type, analyse your hair colour, check for contraindications, and do a test pulse — with no obligation to buy.
